We are on the water!

A black sandy beach, lined with colourful traditional fishing boats and friendly locals, shadowed by smouldering volcanoes and coconut palms, was a fitting starting point for our voyage through Indonesia. The tiny township of Seletreng is a microscopic dot on the map in an area that never sees tourists, let alone two crazy Aussies in shiny kayaks. We were waved on our way with the enthusiasm and goodwill that is so customary to the lovely Indonesians we meet along our way.

Day one was a calm 10km paddle just to get the muscles moving, and the blisters a chance to find their place. Sea snakes slithered past as we neared our first camp, where we were met by two youths casually wielding massive rifles. "Bird hunting" they said while I stared in vain for any sign of wildlife. A perfect campsite, a beautiful sunset and an evening dreaming and chatting excitedly under the stars. What a way to start our adventure.

There is no way to escape the constant stares and the torrent of questions from the crowds of locals gathering around us. Even our breakfast, muesli and dried milk, is so different to their usual nasi goreng that every mouthful is contemplated and discussed by the onlookers. Packing our boats creates all sorts of excitement, our gadgets being met with stares of amazement. A double bladed paddle seemed as revolutionary to one of the locals as a wheel would have been to a cave man.

We were again blessed with dreamy paddling conditions as we dodged the huge nets of the many fishing boats hauling in their catch. Twenty five kilometres was enough today - no point splitting the atom. The afternoon brings a strong easterly wind - we are paddling east. Needless to say, we'll be getting up early from now on to make the most of the calm mornings.

Despite landing in Baluran National Park, on a beach surrounded by coral reef, we were met by a couple of friendly fishermen just bringing in their daily catch. They offered us lunch and selected their best fish for us. Within minutes the fish were killed, gutted (with a stick), skewered on a stick and roasted over the fire we had hastily made. With sambal and kecap manis from our supplies mixed up in a shell, we had a tasty feast. Moments later our chefs sped off to get their catch back to town. After my failures with fishing in the teeming waters of north QLD, I think I like this new style of catching fish!

For the first time in months we were actually able to get into the ocean without casting a thought towards being mauled by a crocodile. The water was a bit murky, the reef surrounded by mangroves, and there wasn't a reptile to be seen. Unfortunately the reef appeared to be the victim of the dynamite fishing trade, and the few tiny fish we saw clinging, terrified, to their territory seemingly acutely aware that they are living in heavily overfished waters.

More than anything, Lain and I are just so thrilled to be back on the water. It has taken a couple of months of hard work and challenges to finally have our boats here and, after the blissful start we have had over the last couple of days, you simply couldn't wipe the smiles off our faces.

Photo: Lain paddling past a colourfully painted traditional fishing boat.