A Schooner or Two of Karumba.

Fishing, fishing, and more fishing. That is what one does when one finds oneself in Karumba. People travel thousands of kilometres to get here. Tiny patches of grass are booked out 12 months in advance so that rapidly greying nomads can park their enormous caravans close to the amenities block. In fact, there may well be more grey nomads here in this small town than there are barramundi in all the local creeks.

Every morning sparks an exodus from the caravan park to the boat ramp where countless sun-smart couples back their well-worn tinnies down to the bank and crawl aboard - she in the front (looking cold in the chilly, early morning breeze) and he with his hand on the throttle. The fish get terrified all day while the carpark slowly fills to bursting point with shiny 4WDs, each with a fold-up trailer suitable to be stacked on the back of the caravan.

Four in the afternoon is apparently happy hour in the bustling caravan park, early enough that the swarm of grey nomads can be safely tucked under their neatly crocheted rugs before the cool outback air settles in to chill the evening.

There's not much else to do here, but the beer is cold and a bulging plate of barramundi and chips is the standard fare. We are stuck (oh, the trauma!) in this extended caravan park for a couple more days so while I'll try to learn a couple of fishing tips from the grey army I think that I might just settle for yet another chilled beverage and leave the boat ramp swarm to do their thing.

The next stop for us is back over to Cairns to rapidly organise our hop, skip and jump over to Port Moresby. The kayaks will be stuffed into a shipping container for a very quick trip to Moresby while we'll fly over and meet the boats at the other end.

Lain and I are busting to get paddling again. It has been a couple of weeks since we made the decision to skip the Fly Delta and the Gulf of Papua, so our muscles are twitching and our GPSs are poised for a new country, a new adventure.

But until then, we are making sure we make the most of Karumba. The sunsets here are spectacular and the only pub in town stares out over 'The Gulf' to make the most of it. Tomorrow we might even have a crack at fishing! When in Rome…